Wow! Thank you everyone for such thoughtful and helpful responses!
Firstly, let me address the issue of just finding a diff bike. I am looking for a bike which will be used most of the time for my urban commute. I just wanted to make sure that it can do some basic medium-ish touring should I decided to plan some trips in the next few years. Based on this use, and my experience commuting and doing day trips on different bikes, I came up with the following requirements (in order of most to least important):
1. Steel
2. Drop bars
3. Triple crankset
4. Integrated shifters (no bar ends)
5. 440mm+ chainstays
6. Room for 35c+ tires
7. Tiagra+ drivetrain (or equivalent)
8. Road-ish geometry
8. 9-10 speed
9. 24 gear inches or lower for the low end, 105+ gear inches on the high end
10. 36H, double walled rims
11. Disc brakes (I ride in some pretty heavy traffic, and wouldn't mind the stopping power)
The national meets 99% of these criteria, is available locally, and from a reputable shop with a great guarantee. While I agree $1300 is a little steep for this bike, it is not that far off from other steel/all-tiagra bikes. Also keep in mind I am in Canada, and things are just a little pricier here. I also plan to try and grab it as they are clearing the 2013s. Other bikes that came close were.
1. Jamis aurora (
http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applica...cat_grp=road_9)
- About $800 + tiagra FD + tiagra brifters
2. Jamis Aurora elite:
http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applica...cat_grp=road_9
- About $1300 + tiagra brifters = too expensive
3. Custom build from a local shop (urbane cyclist) = ~$1600 = too expensive
Back to mod'ing the National. Seems like my best best is just to throw on a 26t granny ring for $20 (I can do the work myself, using the tools at a local co-op). If I was ever to change the RD, it would be when I needed to do a routine chain/cassette replacement anyway, so it would just be the extra cost of the RD. Anyways, this whole discussion was hypothetical, as I am pretty sure the stock gearing will work just fine. I just wanted to make sure that lowering the gearing was possible to do relatively easily, *if* I ever wanted to.
Thank you all for your great suggestions.