Originally Posted by
Dfrost
That solution looks like it will work OK, but the drive side spacer may be thicker than necessary, because the gap between chain rings and chain stay is wider than it needs to be. Have you measured the chain line (distance from center of seat tube to the chain rings)? The "ideal" dimension for a double crank is 43.5mm to the middle of the space between chainrings. That dimension can be off quite a ways without causing problems, and you might even want to bias one way or the other depending on which cogs you use the most.
BB shims are available in 1mm thickness and cassette cog spacers can also be used here, so your 5mm could be replaced with something thinner.
About the non-DS ring being tight - I've had one bike where those threads hadn't been tapped as deep in the BB shell, so the ring tightened prematurely.
Seems to be a consensus on the distance. I will remove and try without the spacer.
How does one measure that? I am having a hard time imagining the center of seat tube - do you mean the middle, top to bottom?
And yes on the NDS side - it started to get tight very early on, and I am afraid if I crank any more - something will break. As it is, it doesn't touch anything.
Originally Posted by
GrayJay
Fascinating! Thank you.
Originally Posted by
squirtdad
having had the same challenge...that is not what is about. look at thread referenced in the first post.
the orginal BB has a 118 asymetrical spindle with ISO taper and Italian thread.
The bottom line is there is no italian thread, cartridge BB with the correct spindle length and offset, with ISO taper and finding used or NOS original is not easy.
This. Exactly - thank you!
Originally Posted by
Chombi
Looks OK, the only thing that does not look 100% to me is how far the crankset inner ring (42T?) seems to be from the drive side chainstay. It might result in a less than perfect chainline relationship between your crankset chainwheels and your rear cogs....(Most of my bikes have the inner (42T) chainwheel about half the distance you have there from the chainstay and they have close to perfect chainlines)
Maybe, a 113mm long offset spindle might work better?,......... but if the bike shifts OK through all gears and things are mostly quiet, the way you have it, then I would not bother changing things again to get the chainwheels closer inboard.
Originally Posted by
american psycho
agree with chombi, that spacing will stress your chain.
Yup - seems to be the consensus. As soon as I figure out how to measure for the ideal 43.5mm, I will report back.