Old 11-07-13, 07:32 PM
  #10  
FBinNY 
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

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Originally Posted by Flying Foot Doc
I have similar motion on new to me, used Zipp101 rear wheel. I had to open the release on the rear brake to keep it from hitting when ever I put power into the pedals. I can move the wheel laterally from brake pad to brake pad. Just had the wheel tured & tensioned with the freehub off, so will have to look at the bearings too. Where do you look in the casette or free hub to see if anything is broken? Thanks, Andy
There are two basic designs for freehubs.

1- Shimano system -- the self-contained freehub module is fixed to the hub shell and the assembly is supported on beatings at each end. Shimano, and most Taiwan-made analogs are this design, and can cause a loose or wobbly wheel if the connection between the two is loose. Usually they're attached via a hex key nut (12mm or larger) accessed fron the end when the axle is removed.

Check for the problem by wiggling the rim while looking behind the freehub body (remove cassette for better view) for movement at the freehub/hub gap.

2- the Hugi/Campagnolo/Mavic system wherein the hub spins on it's own bearings, and the freehub body on another pair of bearings (for bearings total), and the two are connected only via the clutch (ratchet). Here, a probale with the freehub wouldn't affect the hub (and vice versa), so a loose wheel is caused either by bad or misadjusted bearings.

I gave you the overall picture so you can use your own skills to figure yours out, and also because I don't know offhand which design Zipp uses.
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