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Old 11-14-13 | 06:29 AM
  #14  
qcpmsame
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Joined: Jan 2008
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I won't be even trying a disk brake system for any of my road bikes, not trying to start a flame fest here but, from many years racing dirt bikes I can tell you that you need to carefully learn how to bleed brake lines and even get a quality bleeding tool for service or pay each time you have things disassembled. It isn't often but it is going to be like knowing how to true a wheel, either you learn and do or you pay when it happens to be necessary. I got a simple mechanical bleeding set up from Craftsman and followed an experienced mechanics directions one time and then I could avoid the $25.00 each time I needed the brakes bled on my YZ426 or my son's RM250Z over the years.

Another thing to watch is the type of hydraulic fluid your system requires, if it should call for DOT 3/4 get the 4, there is only one DOT approved hydraulic fluid refiner and they are the provider for all the different labels you see in an auto parts store. DOT 3 is not as stable or high temperature rated as DOT 4. DOT 5 is specialized and you cannot mix the 3/4 and 5, it will gum up the orifices and lines. The 3/4 is also hygroscopic and will absorb fluid from the atmosphere so, it has to be changed regularly. If you have one of the systems like Magura they have a special oil, similar to a mineral oil you must use in the system.

Just some things to remember about using a disk brake system I had to learn to keep our motocrossers safe and stopping under harsh conditions. The disk systems are coming, not 2 ways about it, just be safe and either keep them up or pay for the service so you are riding safely. And, that dislike will extend to the hydraulic rim set ups that SRAM and Shimano have, it is the complexity that goes against my old school hard headedness. This dinosaur just won't be using them on his bicycle, I will however, gladly bleed a system for any cyclist that asks me to help out, free. That is how things should be.

Bill
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