Well, here's the reason I paid attention to my timing chain tension.
So like I said, they were quite a bit off from being perfectly round. As a result, the ideal chain tension would be such that it's fairly tight on the high spot (as tight as possible without causing a noticeable increase in drag) and fairly slack on the low spot. The danger, at least in my opinion, is having the slack in the chain when, for example, you are out of the saddle sprinting, putting out a combined 2500 Watts let's say, and going 30 miles per hour. With the frame flexing etc. there is an increased change that the timing chain will derail, which has the potential to be fairly catastrophic.

Now on the other hand, if you never put out 2000+ Watts out of the saddle, it may not be such an issue.

I want to get the chain so that it is taught all the way around for safety reasons.