If you "fixed" the round and your tension is now very uneven that would probably mean that you have tried to correct round with too few spokes or too many turns at a time, perhaps did not taper the amount you tighten as you work out from the high spot, or did not check the spokes across the diameter of the rim.

The key to even tension with good round and true is to first make complete rounds of tensioning, in smaller and smaller increments, until the tension is getting somewhat close, working on dish fairly early. Then always turn opposite side spokes the same amount when truing and don't limit tightening or loosening spokes for round to too few at a time. If you don't pay attention to even tension early on it is extremely difficult to even things out later, due to the interactive nature of the wheel. As noted, what you do on some spokes affects the others. When you pull in a high spot you will necessarily move one or more spots closer to the hub. When you tighten the spokes in one area you will incrementally tighten all the rest.

Finally, I did not work on low-count wheels that much, but I know they are more sensitive to rim imperfections, as the spokes are farther apart.

In my experience it's best at this point to back all the way up to where the spoke threads are at the bottom edge of the nipples (for a fixed starting point) and start over. Tension meters are no substitute for proper procedure, and in fact were very seldom used before the mid 1980's.