Originally Posted by
RubberLegs
Are there any markings on the headset that differentiate it from ISO? I have an old 77 AD Inter-10 I may part out as it has a bent fork....and is WAY too big for me (64cm)....the parts on it may be worth more than the whole
No special markings on the headset as far as I can tell, but would you mind pulling off the locknut and measuring the diameter of the steerer with a precise caliper? If it's Austrian, it'll be 26.0 (as opposed to 25.4). Needless to say, if it's Austrian I'll take it. In fact, I'm going to PM you now.
Originally Posted by
dddd
For the OP's threading dilemma, I have many times saved similarly cross-threaded bb cup threads...
It's actually not a cross-threading issue. (I should have been more clear.) The top race is actually tapped off-axis. It threads on fine but doesn't come to rest parallel to the bearings below it or the locknut above it. Does that make sense? Anyhow, neat trick you shared. I'll have to keep that one on file for when I need it.
Originally Posted by
jonwvara
Frank the Welder in Bellows Falls is a magician when it comes to replacing steerers. Bring (or send him) your fork and a donor steerer and he'll do the job for less than a replacement fork would cost, and without damaging the existing paint. He did a brilliant job on my Gitane TdF.
Still, .3 mm all the way around seems like kind of a long way to shim the cups. But I once shimmed a set of Campagnolo cups out by about .2 mm, and it worked fine. Who else around here has experience with heroic cup-shimming?
This might be the way to go if I'm unable to find a replacement headset. The original fork is nothing special but finding a replacement fork of the proper axle-to-crown height, rake, and steerer length and then having it powder-coated to match the frame (and then shimming the cups of a new ISO headset) seems like more trouble.