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Old 12-27-13 | 07:31 AM
  #8  
carpediemracing
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Tariffville, CT

Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track

I have a bunch of Keo Classics or similar (Sprint, etc), a set of Keo Carbons (no plate under the cleat area), and two sets of Keo Max2 (plate under the cleat area). I think that's what they're called anyway.

The Keo Carbons are by far the best in terms of engagement. I have the tension cranked all the way. I unclip out of them maybe a few times a year but I don't have to baby them when out of the saddle on bumpy pavement (as an example). I bought the Max2s to replace the Carbon but reverted almost immediately to the Carbons since I was unclipping out of the Max2 pretty much every time I rode. I could avoid it by pedaling super careful but that's not the way to go hard.

My beat up Carbons:


The Max2s on the red bike:


I mention the Keo dilemma in this post here.

I have maybe 5? sets of Classics in the house. Right now they reside on the tandem (captain and stoker), the Missus's bike, and a few in a box or something.

I'm a 3 for basically forever, had raced well enough to upgrade to 2 purely on crit sprint placings in 2010 (on the Carbons), and my only physiological strength is the sprint. For a TT or less peaky rider the pedal choice may not be an issue. For example I've never clipped out of any of the Keos except when making harder efforts (seated/standing). If you have a powermeter I'm going to guess and say it's about 800-1000+ watt efforts. 500w efforts seated, no biggie.

I tried clipping into the Blades (16nm the last one I tried, just a few days ago) and it felt as loose and slippery as the Max2 I have at max tension. I haven't pedaled them but the weak connection feel was there. I'm curious about the new Keo pedal, I think I saw 24nm for tension numbers (it uses a blade type system also but the bottom of the pedal is covered I think).

I'm considering trying some non-Look Keo compatibles just to try them, see if they're better, like the off brand ones.

hope this helps
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