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Old 01-01-14 | 10:54 PM
  #9  
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Andrew R Stewart
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Rochester, NY

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

A few questions and comments. What crank arm length are you using? The 68mm BB drop is not very much, especially if you're using 165mm arms. But a lower drop makes the ST/DT angle even tighter... The TT is pretty short for 700C wheels. especially with a 73* HT. What's the rake? Are you OK with toe/wheel overlap? I'd also wonder how much post is above the ST, or more to the point what is the crotch clearance when straddling the bike?

I just finished a frame that needed about 4* of tightening of the ST/DT angle. It was a lot given the cast shell. I did a lot of bending with solid bars first and then a bunch of socket manipulation with pliers and crescent wrench, a little bit of die grinder action (in the socket walls) finished off the changes. The whole time i wondered why i didn't do a fillet frame (I was matching another frame's style, which was lugged).

I agree with the suggestion to consider 650C wheels. In your racing have you ever had a wheel change during the race? This about the only reason to use what every other one is using, the chance of a neutral support wheel change.

Maybe 2/3s of the bikes I've built have been for riders under 5'7". Things get tight and compromises abound with 700c wheels. The free version of Bike Cad is worth the effort to download if you can. Andy.
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