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Old 01-20-14 | 03:24 PM
  #8  
canam73
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Haunchyville
Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
@canam73.

Honestly, any front hub that suffers bearing issues or flange failure, over any period of time, because of radial lacing is, IMHO, a piece of crap. The most likely causes are material choices (using softer, CHEAPER 6000 series alloys and flange placement in relation to bearings).

In the OE work we do, I build and ride every wheel we supply parts for to our customers. Sometimes they source their own hubs which means I build with those instead of hubs of my choosing and I use the same spokes, nipples and lacings as our customers do. This means we can give real world feedback during development and that we can anticipate any real world issues that may arise.

This is the long way of saying I have experience with crappy hubs.

Front radial is mostly cool. Very little weight savings and minimal aero advantage. If the flanges are spaced well and the wheel is built well the front wheel should last forever and need only an occasional tweak once a season or so. Build it and forget it.

The voodoo is mostly in the rear.

Unwinding can be solved with spoke prep and stress relief during the build. This shouldn't be an issue on the front.

Based on how most rims are drilled, a radial lacing should give the best nipple seating and spoke alignment possible unless the rim is drilled SPECIFIC to a hub. This usually only happens on proprietary wheels. Aftermarket rims need to be drilled in a generic way so that they can be used for the greatest amount of applications.

For a 28H rear rim this means 2X/2X. Which yields good alignment and the best bracing angles.
Follow up question: What do you make of these comments from Fair Wheel's hub review:

Hub shell material: Even though not every manufacturer will state the alloy they use, most manufacturers use a very high strength alloy (usually 7000 series), and at first glance this seems like a good idea. Stronger is better, right? In some applications though, we believe that 6061 might be a better choice. The reason is that 6061 has higher corrosion resistance, and more importantly resistance to something called “stress corrosion cracking”. The spokes exert concentrated and variable forces at the holes in the hub flanges, and high strength is a less important factor than ductility and corrosion resistance. Another advantage is that the softer alloy will deform more readily providing better support for the spoke in the flange. If you live and ride in a particularly corrosive area, anodized 6061 hubshells would likely last the longest. As far as we know, only White Industries and Alchemy use this alloy. Chris King won’t divulge the series of alloy they use for their hubshells stating only that it is proprietary.

Full artictle: http://fairwheelbikes.com/c/forums/t...ad-hub-review/
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