View Single Post
Old 03-24-14 | 04:15 PM
  #5  
FBinNY
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

My way of setting the size of the rear loop is always the same. I let the housing tell me. I put a ferrule (if using one) on the RD end, and put it into the fitting. Then I hold the other end along the line of the frame fitting and advance or withdraw housing until the RD end lines up with the fitting. That's the best length since it prevents an angle where the wire emerges.

Sometimes, however, I can't get natural alignment at both ends, so I have to cheat. I might slip the housing into a piece of tubing and curve it into a sharper bend, or sometimes I can set the sharper bend by working the housing in my fingers. If there's a practical place to tie the loop to force it to the line I want, I'll do that. (I'll often resort to a zip-tie on the stay about an inch out from the stop for this. On my commeter, I trap the housing below the QR nut which makes a good line for the chainstay, and a clean tight radius bend for the RD end.

In short there's no single best way. The object is good alignment at the ends, but how to do that is up to you and will vary bike to bike.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply