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Old 03-28-14 | 09:24 AM
  #13  
FBinNY
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by Fred Smedley
Having pulled them apart it's my opinion is that there are places inside those shifters where you are not getting grease out of and lube into unless they are disassembled. For shifter longevity grease is going to be a much better choice than light oil IMO . How long does light oil hang around in tight clearances in your chain for example?
As a practical matter, not only will a thin solvent oil blend penetrate everywhere, there's no way to prevent it from doing so. Capillary action ensures that it'll wick effectively, and the thinner & tighter the spaces the better it'll wick in there.

As for lubrication, that can be done the same way but using a thicker oil or grease in solvent to help wicking. Once in place, the solvent evaporates leaving the lubricating film.

BTW- after lubing, let it stabilize (OK to ride) for a while, so all solvent is gone. Then use a Q-tip or rilled corners of a paper towel or rag to dab as much as possible off exposed surfaces. This will help slow the adhesion of dust over time.

The flush and relube cycle can be repeated as needed, and will keep levers working for a long time. Don't get anal, because it is possible to kill with kindness, but doing it once in a while, maybe after a rough winter is good PM.
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