Originally Posted by
FBinNY
Yes it can be and if you do it to every spoke going once around you'll end pulling the rim off dish to the left, and fighting to get it back to center. Instead, add tension to every other spoke one flange at a time, right flange first. You might even go twice around on the right, bringing the rim too far to the right, then adding final tension from the left, to get to the tension goal and proper diah together, without having to tighten the right nipples at full tension.
As a rule on a tight wheel, it takes twice as much (approximation for discussion) added turns on the right flange as the left to maintain dish. I build wheels targeting 85% of goal tension or so with the rim 2-3mm to the right of target, then moving it back left brings me home both for tension and dish together.
Hi FBinNY,
I read the same advice some time back in Gerd Schraner's "The Art of Wheelbuilding" and decided to try it. It certainly has helped me to get higher tension on the NDS without over tensioning the DS to adjust the wheel dish. It seems to make the whole tensioning process a lot simpler as well as you tend to concentrate on one side of the wheel at a time instead of switching back and forth trying to keep the dish correct.