Eureka!
Chainring Choice or Shifting Ramps? | Off The Beaten Path
Exactly the issues I was describing and how they addressed the problem (though a bit vague).
Plus, because my setup has a slightly wider spacing between the granny & big ring (so the chain clears the 130bcd chainring bolts) I believe that exacerbates the issue by causing even more diagonal skew than in the "bad shift" pictured below.
I'll need to dig deeper into how they profiled their teeth to solve the issue...
The issue I am seeing is this (image from link above):