Ron, before I did anything, I'd get the tape measure out and start checking. Given the same pedals, saddle, and bars on both bikes, (which they should be ... more on that below), all measurements should be identical. Even though the seat and head tube angle may vary, that just affects how the bike handles. YOU haven't changed, you just changed bikes, so your reach to the bars, your leg extension, and your saddle to bar height differential should all be the same.

Start by checking the saddle height from the pedal axle. Next, drop a plumb line from your saddle nose past the cranks, and check to see that the distance from the crank center is the same on both bikes. If not, move your saddle fore or aft, then start measuring all over again. Saddle positioning is like flying a helicopter, i.e., a single adjustment affects every other adjustment.

A common mistake, especially when riding the same saddle/seatpost combo, is the assumption that setting the saddle up according to the marks is going to give you the same position on this bike that it gave you on your other bike. It MAY, but it also may not. Head tube and seat tube angles vary widely and will affect all that. So you start with a plumb line.

Once you get the saddle position to perfectly mimic your "comfortable" bike in both height and relation to the cranks, go from there. Measure the reach, (distance from the saddle nose to the bars). Then check the saddle to bar differential, (the height difference between the saddle and the bars. This one's a bit tougher, but I use a level resting on the saddle nose and drop a tape measure to the bars). Stems can be bought not only in varying length, but in degree of rise, as well. A new stem may be necessary.

Once you have all these measurements correct, YOU should be comfortable. The bike, on the other hand, will still be the bike. The differences between aluminum, Ti, carbon and steel will be more amplified by the fact that you're in your perfect riding position.

Now, as promised, a word on saddles, bars and pedals. As a tandem, single and fixie rider of over 40 years, I learned a long time ago that if you find a saddle that's truly comfortable for you, buy 20. That will be enough to outfit all your bikes, and keep you in new saddles for about a decade or more. (Because, according to that little bastard Irishman Murphy, as soon as you find a saddle you like, the manufacturer modifies it or quits making it altogether). Same with bars. (Pedals aren't quite so trendy.)

Obviously, I'm a BIG fan of riding the same saddle, bars, and pedals on all the bikes in the fleet. No excuses. You have three points of contact with the bike, and they should all feel the same. The average person can have a MAJOR problem getting comfortable on a new bike. So, if you've EVER dialed in a bike to be comfortable for you, it just makes sense to mimic it.