I haven't taco'd one wheel in the several thousand I have trued, only one very light narrow road wheel ever gave me pause, but it just felt springy no effect on trueness.(<5 minutes for decent wheels, 10 for those really off but with a straight rim, 15 for good results from wheels I would normally toss in the "emergency backup" pile.
There are some fancy mechanical setups that can do this with even pressure all around, but they are intended for use by a shop and they aren't much more effective, but they do cut out the risk. Its a hole in a table just smaller than a 24inch rim and a pneumatic ram with a soft plastic end presses straight down on the axle just hard enough to make all the spokes on one side go almost slack at the proper spoke tension of just under 1/2 of yield strength. Most of the time half of that is enough to acceptably stress the wheel, the same machine pressure setting can be used on a huge range of wheels.
MTB and kids bike wheels can take a huge push, just don't lean your weight into higher end road rims, it's about several small slow pushes gradually increasing in force.(just enough to de-tension the lower side just under your hands.) Probably best to see it demonstrated in person though.
Squeezing spokes is certainly better than nothing as it gets the elbows seated, but it does nothing to relieve the strain on the spokes so the nipple can turn.

Rolf Prima wheel stressor - wheel building process - YouTube