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Old 06-01-14 | 10:35 AM
  #11  
FBinNY
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by rms13
Thanks guys. I completely detensioned all the spokes and brought them back up using truing stand and my eyeballs. Currently it is rideable and I'll spend a little time today trying to get it better......
OK,

NOW, you're ready to consider tension. Spin the wheel and run your thumb nail or a pencil against the spokes listening to the pitch. Don't worry about having them all match, just listen for ones far from the rest, wither high, or more commonly clunkers. Adjust these closer to average compensating with their crossed pairs, and keeping the wheel aligned. Do this in small repetitive sequences feeling and listening for even tension, but always keep the wheel true. (don't forget about dish as you do this)

When you've finished and are pretty happy, it FINALLY time for the tension meter. Measure 2 or 3 spokes on both sides and use the conversion chart to check that the wheel is within the tension target. If you need to add tension overall, always add to the right side first, and expect that the right will need more turns than the left, so use the right to reach 90-95% of your tension goal, then use the left spokes to move the rim back to correct dish as you add the last bit of tension.

Lastly, DO NOT OVERWORK THE WHEEL. Get it good and within acceptable limits and quit when you find yourself tweaking but not seeing improvement.
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