Sorry to shock you, but I stand by what I said. The objective is a true wheel. Even tension is a secondary objective to that, and IMO a distant 2nd. You do not use a tension meter to build wheels, and should not need one to get even tension. A tension meter is used to confirm that average tension is within target range. It's a QC tool, not a building too.

Even tension is a matter of good basic technique, and with that you don't introduce uneven tension in the first place, except maybe near the joint or other anomaly in the rim, and tension meter or no, it wil require uneven tension to compensate for where the rim wants to be.

At max tension, spokes are elongated only a bit over 1mm, so what positions the rim is even spoke length which is key to the process. What so many people fail to mention is that the spokes work as a system, so in the early stages of tensioning and truing it's important to keep all the lengths close, and correct any rim misalignment (radial or wobble) with small adjustments over a number of spokes rather than a large adjustment of one or two which is how you introduce uneven tension.

When a skilled builder builds a wheel, he's turn out a tight, true, evenly tensioned wheel without at any time checking the relative tension of any spokes, except maybe catching a clunker by eye here or there.

Even tension is the norm when building a wheel, uneven tension doesn't happen until/unless the builder produces it.


BTW- I might point out that after repeatedly building a potato chip, the OP followed my advice and ended up with a wheel. Now he has something close enough to refine into a better wheel.