Originally Posted by
rpenmanparker
I have the greatest respect for both your knowledge about bicycles and also the orderly and understandable way that you impart it to novices. Time and again I am amazed that something I thought was obvious and absolutely correct is debunked by your deeper knowledge set. Nevertheless I am shocked at the advice you provided above. Wheel true may be the number one characteristic in importance, but you cannot reasonably call a wheel well built with widely divergent spoke tensions. True only relates to how well the wheel rides, while evenness of tension relates to the equally important characteristic of both short and long term durability, i.e. short term maintenance of true and long term spoke life, respectively.
I understand advising a novice that a tension meter isn't required to get even spoke tensions. Some people, but not all, can accomplish this by an alternate method. I for one can't do it to my own personal standards without the meter. But putting that aside, I simply cannot understand telling someone that even tension is nice, but not necessary. Of course the wheel has to be true in the short run to be rideable, but it also has to be evenly tensioned for the true to last more than a ride or two and for the wheel to last for the long haul. You cannot focus on just one and not the other. If you cock up a wheel on a ride and just need to get back home, sure true is all you have to worry about while wrenching it on the road. But that doesn't mean that wheel is fixed for continued use. Even tension is required for that to be the case.
FB did say that "Even tension is desirable, but is not the key objective. The goal is and has always been a true wheel, properly dished. That's the ONLY real objective, and while doing so with tension as close to even as possible is nice, true trumps even tension."
I'm not an expert wheelbuilder but it seems obvious to me that if the spokes are evenly tensioned but the wheel isn't true, the end result is no good. If the wheel is true and the tension is as close to even as possible, you've got a good wheel. I read FB's post as saying that you want tension to be as close to even as possible, while stressing that a true wheel with slightly uneven tensions beats an out of true wheel with even tensions.
If the only way to get the wheel true is for the spoke tensions to be wildly away from anything resembling even, my first thought would be that there's something badly wrong with the rim. The first (and so far only) time I ever built a wheel for actual use (I practised on a few trashed wheels to get the hang of lacing and truing first), trueness and roughly even tension pretty much came together as I tightened the nipples. My wife is a musician and she couldn't tell the difference in pitch between most of the spokes on any given side, and the lateral and radial runouts were both within about 0.5mm
ETA: The wheel I built has carried my fat ass (240lb plus the weight of the bike) for north of 3000 miles so far and hasn't caused me any issues.