I know this thread is old, but hoped that someone else might find my info useful.
About 2 months ago, I bought a Mongoose paver second hand from a friend for $40. When he'd had it, he had done a nice job of maintaining it. The handlebars had been replaced with an Origin 8 riser bar with a brace across the top that reminds me of bmx handlebars. He had replaced the chain and added a chain guide. He had replaced the quill. Even with the change in handlebars and the quill, I was still sitting too close to the handlebars with the seat at the right height (i'm 5'8). I wound up swapping the quill to Origin 8 quill to threadless convertor. I used a 140mm stem with about a 5-7 degree angle (second hand, so not sure of degree. upside down, so negative in my case) to get the reach just about right for me. My friend had also replaced the brake pads, seat, and put MKS lambda pedals on it. He still had the rack for the back, bagged up an extra chain and 3 pairs of kool stop brake pads. I feel like i got a bargain (the pedals are usually 35$ or more on ebay).
since having the bike, i've swapped the tires to schwalbe cx comp and used the sunlite thorn resistant tubes. i agree with you definitely, good tubes and great tires make a difference. it's ok to spend a little on these and i'd do it on a more expensive bike anyway. I've swapped the seat for a brooks b17.
I noticed that it was slow. Yes, very slow. It seems to stem from a combination of a small front chainring and the crank arms are shorter than average. I swapped the chainring to a bigger chainring and it included a longer crank arm length. When I changed the crank and arm, my friend pointed out that the original mongoose's equipment was VERY HEAVY and likely made from steel compared to aluminum. Changing the chainring and crank arm dropped weight, extended the pedal circle diameter, and increased my chainring to cog ratio. It's much better. I am very happy with the bike. My only complaint is that the bottom bracket is low like a road bike. the extra length on the crank arm increases pedal strike possibilities. I haven't hit the bottom bracket on anything yet, but I do enough trail riding that i feel it inevitable. The bottom bracket and rear hub seem to squeak. it could be because i'm overweight.
Originally Posted by
az2008
I just sold my Paver today on Craigslist. Personally, I liked the handlebars. More of an upright, cruiser/comfort position. The bull-nose seemed to be designed for bungee'ing some cargo to the handlebar. (A jacket, small bag.).
I bought the Scwinn Avenue from Walmart (almost the same bike as the Trailway at Target). It fits me better than the Paver. I don't like the front shock and seat-post shock. I'd like to put a rigid fork on it.
I like the Paver. But, it was just a bit too small for me at 6'-0". The buyer is 5'-9" and it fit him nicely.
I thought about keeping the Paver and converting it to an e-bike. But, I think a 25-30 mph bike would benefit from front shocks and double-wall rims. A bike like that probably takes a beating on uplifted concrete and asphalt edges.
The buyer was a lot like me. Getting into pavement/commuting riding. Not ready to pull the trigger on a $800 "real" bike (as the cork sniffers would put it). The Paver can be a stepping stone for him, like it was me. Since it fits him, it could be much more than a stepping stone.
The Paver is still "out of stock" at Walmart. I think I will have the lifelong distinction of getting the last one.
It's too bad because it was a decent bike for the $130 price (if your expectations were set correctly).
The Schwinn Avenue is working well for me. More of a lean-forward (fitness) position. I think I like that more than the upright/comfort position of the Paver. Still feel a little cramped. An "offset" seatpost would help. Better components.
Starting to look at used Trek FX 7.3s. The Avenue may end up being my e-bike.