View Single Post
Old 06-08-14 | 10:19 AM
  #2  
FBinNY
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

New chains are less flexible than older ones. They also have sharp edges on plates, and may be a bit stiff because of dried lube.

When you shift the rear it sends a wave don the chain similar to what you do when you try to flip a rope or garden hose over something snagging it. So combine the wave with the added stiffness and it can flip the chain to the tops of the teeth, and then over the side. The worn tooth profile on the ring can also contribute because there's some pitch error (what causing skipping on rear sprockets) so the chain is more likely to climb out.

Odds are the problem will disappear with some break in, and I'd give that a chance, maybe trying some better chain lube.

If it doesn't break in, you can use a file on the outer (toward the large ring) bevel of the teeth to move the point inboard more. Unless you're familiar with how bevel affects chain pickup and how to modify to advantge, I'd save this option for a last resort, and get more details about how it's done if/when it becomes necessary.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply