Originally Posted by
yuoil
Thank you for your good points. Yes, the derailleur seems to be functioning properly and smoothly when detached. The derailleur hanger is also true as far as I can tell. No grit buildup anywhere I could find. I am suspecting it might be under the handlebar tape too.
Sorry, I didn't mean to be confusing. This is basically identical to what I do. I've done it several times from the start (outermost cog and largest chainring, take off tension from cable, run in tensioner, give it a turn out, then tension the cable to 'snug', etc.) Sorry for the bad description. It shifts beautifully on the stand but when I go out to test ride it starts to shift otherwise.
Are you doing these steps specifically? Its not a matter of just tensioning until the cable is snug.
- If derailleur will not shift one sprocket after removing slack in "d", return lever back to outermost sprocket position and increase inner wire tension by turning barrel adjuster counter-clockwise 1/4 turn and attempt shift again.
- Shift to second sprocket in rear. Pedal and increase inner wire tension by continuing to turn adjusting barrel counter-clockwise until a definite rattling is heard. Rattle is from chain scrapping against next sprocket.
- Once a too-tight rattle is achieved, turn barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise, to release inner wire tension, and pedal again. Listen and look for signs of scraping or rattling. Continue turning barrel adjuster 1/4 turn clockwise at a time until rattle disappears.
- Shift derailleur one sprocket inward at a time, listening for signs of rattle, indicating a too tight inner wire. Turn adjusting barrel 1/4 turn clockwise to eliminate rattle. Note: Do not attempt shift to largest rear sprocket while in largest front sprocket. This gear is normally not used and adjusting tension to this shift may compromise other commonly used gears.