Poorly/improperly installed tubes usually blow quickly and spectacularly for no apparent reason, i.e. you pull out of the parking lot, go half a mile on a beautiful newly repaved road and BLAM shards of tube sting your calves.

At 190-215 lbs you're on the heavier side. I was there too. I avoided punctures then, before, and now, by doing a few things (history: I worked in, managed, and owned a bike shop during a 15 year stint in the biz. I changed a lot of tubes and tires and I saw people make the same mistakes over and over again):

- when installing a tire/tube don't use tools. Check to make sure the tube is not pinched by the bead. I've made this mistake enough times and it's really unpleasant when a tube blows up indoors a few feet from your ear. Don't sit down when you install a tire, you can exert more force on the bead if you're standing, at least that holds true for me.

- check pressure every single time you ride. If you pinch flat, i.e. you check your tube and you see two small cuts like a snake bit it, it means you're running either too narrow a tire or you're running too little pressure. If you run a really narrow tire you can't make up for it using more pressure, the tire just doesn't have the volume to absorb impact. I had one customer yell at me because he double flatted during a lunch ride. He was probably 200-220 and insisted on riding 19c tires. He went to 23c tires, checked pressure as I recommended, and no more problems.

- make sure you have a wide enough tire. A 23c tire will be about the minimum and should be pretty good. A wider tire, a 25c for example, will be better because it has more air volume. On our tandem we use 32c. Our bike has to support something like 380 lbs and we cannot unweight the saddle like a typical single rider can so the tires hit things 100% all the time. Consider cars. We have in our driveway a Ford Expedition and VW TDIs. The TDIs have tires that have about 3" between the pavement and the rim. The Expedition is something like 8-10" between the pavement and the rim. Which do you think will fare better when it hits a raised sewer grate or manhole cover? Likewise a bigger bike tire can absorb more force before transferring the impact to the rim.

- make sure you unweight the saddle when you hit things. You can go over surprisingly large things if you let the bike bounce around, i.e. rotate around the cranks. If you hold the bars, stand up, and coast, the bike will be able to move up and down. This motion allows the bike to absorb bigger impacts. If you insist on staying seated you'll be your local shop's best friend as you go in and replace tires, tubes, and rims/wheels. If you have room you should ride around stuff that can bend your wheels. Keep your head up so you're not swerving suddenly to avoid something. Those sudden swerves can be dangerous to you and those around you.

- see if you can bunny hop the bump. I'm not talking bunny hops like three feet high, I'm talking bunny hops that sometimes have maybe an inch of vertical. That's enough if you can clear a pothole, i.e. not dropping the wheel 6 inches into the hole. This is advanced/optional, you'll realistically flat a rear or bend a rear wheel while you're getting the hang of it. If you do it right you can hop up onto curbs at low speed, etc.

Basically you should almost never see an impact type flat (snake bite). This implies that you made an equipment error (too narrow a tire), a maintenance error (not enough air pressure), or a riding error (you slammed the wheel into the pothole/whatever). Obviously you can't avoid all potholes but these types of flats should occur once in a blue moon. I don't remember the last snake bite I had, maybe 2005? when I hit a massive pothole at high speed and flatted both tires.

You should never see a blow out. This implies maintenance errors (installed incorrectly or a cut/worn tire). Sometimes a relatively new tire can blow out because a loose or improperly adjusted brake shoe burns a groove in the tire's sidewall.

Although avoidable the most common experienced rider flat I see is from a shifting rim strip. It can take thousands and thousands of miles for the rim strip to migrate the few mm necessary to expose a spoke hole. During that time a properly selected/installed tire/tube shouldn't flat so chances are that no one ever checked the rim strip after the initial tire install. Even if the rider replaces the tire (due to it being worn out) it may be that the rim strip is still "okay" so nothing gets done. I had flats on two wheels in a couple months (front and rear) due to that problem in 2013, after installing the tires in 2010. I removed the tires from two more wheels with the same rims and found that those rim strips had migrated as well. I installed different rim strips, ones that stick to the rim, not just sit on it.

Your tires should last until the tread gets thinner and allows small debris to penetrate the casing and the tube. Those flats are really an indicator that you're approaching the end of the tire's usable life.

I hate flatting on training rides. It's worse than flatting in a race because I can't just ride back to the car or whatever, I have to fix the flat and keep going. I've learned, mainly vicariously, all sorts of things that commonly happen to cause flats. I try to take care of the predictable stuff so that I don't get flats on a regular basis. The weird stuff none of us can control, that's just fate.

hope this helps