Old 06-25-14, 08:04 AM
  #6  
smurfy
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Location: SW Ohio
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Bikes: Classic lugged-steel road, touring, shopping, semi-recumbent, gravel

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Originally Posted by Kimmo
The 2 or 3 metal threads would do most of the axial work holding the cup in the BB shell, while the epoxy filling the space out to the edge would prevent any radial movement. Could work... and better if it's a traditional loose BB; a cartridge one puts more load on the threads IMO. A loose one only has to cop the axial load from bearing preload, while a cartridge one puts axial load on that thread from the left cup tightening with way more torque than you preload bearings with.

Or if you like, you could have my used VO BB for $30 plus shipping. It's 110.5mm, 250g, and from the first batch with the oddball anodising with one side pink and the other blue. Naturally, I sanded the visible anodising off and painted it black. IIRC it's only done a couple thousand km, but the ally cups got slightly mashed a couple of times from using worn tools on it. I'll throw in a couple of allen head crank bolts, with no rust. If you're interested, PM me and I'll shoot a couple of pics.

I don't do square-taper anymore
Thanks for the info and offer, Kimmo!

Unfortunately 110 isn't near wide enough as I'll probably need at least 117 for the crank I'm using. I will use your advice and either use a conventional non-sealed bb or save my pennies and get the VO one. There's no hurry to get this bike done since I can't ride it anyway due to tendon surgery.
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