Originally Posted by
schiiism
Thanks for the link, that explains the difference really well. My only question is concerning his point about the shallow reach allowing him to run a longer stem. Is that because the top angle bending down into the hoods is more obtuse than the standard, so the bars are closer at those bending points?
With the shorter reach and shallow drop , it just brings the bars closer to the rider if the stem length stays the same, so if he wants to maintain the same position of the shifters relative to his body, he would just use a longer stem to offset the shorter reach/ position from using the compact bars.
Originally Posted by
schiiism
My fitter didn't specify a reach. These are what I have now-
Carbon Specialized bars, 143mm drop x 74mm reach
110mm stem (I had 90 before and this feels SO much better and less twitchy, she didn't have 115 in stock)
Is there any way to tell from my posture/hand size if I need compact? I don't think these bars are shallow drop, and I don't feel overextended at all when I brake or ride the hoods. I like the hoods for their hand position comfort, but I like the drops because my back feels better stretched out more. My Fuji has shallow drops, and I find that after ~15 minutes in the drops, my hands start to ache. I think it's because I'm trying to push my hands down more than the bars will allow.
Looking at your with you hands in the drops, I don't think you need a shallow drop, but you might like the more constant radius shape of a compact bar, there are many with a 130mm drop if your comfortable with you current position.
I notice that your bars appear to be rotated upwards or have been cut short, I suspect this it to give a flat transition from the bars to the hoods. in this position it is not using the full 140mm drop depth, so if you change to a 130mm drop compact bar , you will be in a similar position.
The compact shape would give you more hand positions towards the end of the bars, which are useful if for example you sprint out of the saddle while in the drops, the horizontal sections don't create as much of a wrist bend as you have now with your current bars in their current position
You can see it in this photo, the constant radius shape and how they have positioned the bars more rotated back towards the head tube, so the shape still allows the flatter transition to the hoods, but also more relaxed wrist positions.
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