Originally Posted by
Andrew R Stewart
There are other reasons for a skipping then chain/tooth meshing. If the der is well adjusted, not twisted or otherwise damaged, then it is unlikely to be the problem. The first possibility I think of is the freehub's ratchet is wearing. Much like a worn chain skip, a ratchet skip will only happen under power and this is hard to duplicate on a repair stand. Another possibility is that the current skip isn't for the same reason as the old one. Like a tight link or link side plate/pin issue. Or the der is not adjusted to the new set up. And to flog the dog one last time, is the hanger bent? Andy.
Thanks for the input. Before I list the checks I have now made, a little more info on the bike so you get the idea that this is really not a worn bike. I got the bike from a friend who bought it brand new and had never used it. I've only been using it for just under a year -albeit frequently for commuting approx 10-15 miles a day and with a extra weight (often about 4-5kg, but certainly never more than about 10kg in a carradice saddle bag) but the bike has always been properly cleaned, maintained and lubricated. It has never had a crash or knock and I'm pretty sure it's never even fallen over.
Checks I have now made since reading these posts are:
1. Hanger is perfect.
2. Dropouts are fine and wheel sits in dead straight every time.
3. pulley wheels on rear mech are in good condition
4. no stiff links detected in chain. It wasn't a speed link but I did make sure to loosen the link properly with a few firm lateral wiggles.
So, are there any other checks I can make or would you say it's looking looking like the freehub body? Has anyone heard of a freehub wearing out / malfunctioning so soon? It's a shimano FH-2200 and I've got the same one (or very similar) on an older bike that has done many more years distance / service without any problems - so it would surprise me if it was the freehub, but maybe I should try mounting the cassette to a different wheel to see if the problem resolves - Would that make sense?
Look forward to responses,
Thanks again
Tim
**In addition:: since writing the above, I have taken the bike to a friend who is not a mechanic by trade but has been cycling and tinkering with road bikes many more years than myself. He agreed with my appraisal of all the elements mentioned above and did not think the rear mech or freehub could be causing it (apparently it's 'all or nothing' with a freehub - they don't 'partially' malfunction under harder pedal pressures like mine, rather they suddenly and conclusively 'die' and there would be no questioning it. He thought it could be the chain as it looked like it was almost too wide and too close to the sprockets either side but then he put a more expensive 9 speed chain on and it looked exactly the same and the problem did not go. He also took the cassette off and put it all back on again to make sure it was all correct.
He felt confident that in theory everything 'should' be working ok and that the next step would be for me to try a more expensive cassette as this is what it must logically be.
So, the plot thickens, but at least the problem is not the chain, right?? Does anyone agree that I should buy a more expensive cassette? He suggested at least a 105, but at first online glance I think they only do 10 speed. Can someone tell me if a 10 speed will fit onto the same hub with no spacing issues? of course then I'd have to buy a new 10 speed chain aswell.
Help me Obi Wan Bike Forum, you're my only hope!!
:-(