Thread: Removing a BB
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Old 08-17-14 | 06:18 PM
  #17  
FBinNY
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by DaveLeeNC
FWIW, I cobbled together with washers and a 5/16"-24 bolt something that will hold the tool in place. That was all that was available on a Sunday and was the best fit even among the metric stuff at Lowe's. It will go in a couple of threads and it doesn't really doesn't take much force - mostly functions as another set of hands.

With a 12" wrench I still can't get the darn thing off. I could probably force it with a sledge hammer but given the cobbled up contraption holding the tool in place, I'm not comfortable with that. And I don't have a breaker bar that I can fit over the wrench. And I don't live in a 'decent sized city'. So I'm off tomorrow to (probably) get a breaker bar and the right bolt (about 45 miles away).

Thanks again for the great help (even though I have failed so far). And this has gone a LONG way toward dampening my (possibly ill-advised) intent to get good at real bicycle mechanics :-)

dave
Sometimes they're corroded in and don't want to come out. It's sounding like yours may be this way. If you haven't yet, try your luck on the opposite side. Also if you can't find a decent M8x1 bolt to do the job, pass a 1/4" threaded rod through the hollow spindle and use a nut and washers at each end.

Now, the best way to get high, and even torque is to out the tool into a vise and turn the frame. ***** if using this technique be very careful to track the direction of turn -- for a LH thread, turn the frame as if making a right turn.

In any case, do not let this discourage. If it turns out that corrosion is binding the cup, you're in good company and even the best mechanics struggle (and often fail) at getting the cups out in one piece.
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