View Single Post
Old 08-17-14 | 08:05 PM
  #3  
FBinNY
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

The basics are fairly straightforward and the same for almost all derailleurs.

1- start with a square hanger, which puts the RD parallel with the wheel. You can check by shifting to any gear where the cage is fairly vertical, then look from behind the bike and compare it to a straightedge placed against the wheel.
2- the 2 limit screws don't affect shifting, they only determine the extreme ends (limits) of the travel range.
3- the B-screw on the back of the upper body sets the derailleur height, which should be so the upper pulley is close but not touching any sprockets. check on the larger ones and set the gap at about 1/4-3/8"
4- the actual shifting is controlled by the cable, and adjusted with the cable (trim) adjuster.

Those are the basics. I suggest you find a tutorial and follow the instructions to the letter, which should leave you in good shape.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Reply