I bought a Specialized AWOL Comp frameset a few months ago and am getting close to having the bike up and running.

The frame has rocker style dropouts, and the frame splits where the right side dropout installs, so I built the bike up with a Gates belt drive CDX system.

I applied Frame Saver last week, and as I was re installing the dropouts I noticed that the right side dropout is difficult to install. The bolt holes don't line up perfectly, and it takes significant force to get things back together. It is also difficult to "rock" the dropout as is meant to happen when setting its position. The bolt scrapes paint off the dropout when I do this, unlike the left dropout which functions perfectly. When I put the rear wheel in the frame, it isn't pointing straight ahead, rather off to the left such that the middle of the rear tire at its most forward point is left of the center of the seat post by a centimeter or so. Each dropout has hash marks painted on to allow for both sides to be set to the same position, but setting each dropout on the same hash mark as I did results in the wheel pointing to the left.

I am able to straighten the wheel out by moving either the left dropout forward or the right dropout back. My first thought was that the hash marks just aren't painted on quite right. This would be a minor issue, however if I set both dropouts in their furthest back position, the wheel still points to the left. If both dropouts are as far back as they can go, the axle should be in the same position on both sides, but the wheel alignment tells me that it isn't.

Choosing the correct belt size for the CDX system depends on the chain-stay length. After purchasing the frame, I used Gates' online calculator and selected the 118 tooth belt. In order to set the correct belt tension, both dropouts must be in their furthest back position, however when I set it up this way the wheel isn't pointing straight ahead. I can set the right dropout as far back as it will go, and move the left dropout forward to straighten out the wheel, but this results in a belt with too little tension.

I called Specialized to see what they had to say, but they are unable to offer technical support over the phone. I was told to take the frame in to the dealer for them to look at it. Unfortunately these frames were sold out pretty much everywhere when I purchased it, and I ended up buying it from a shop located hundreds of miles away, so I can't take it there. Specialized claims I can take it to any of their dealers, and there is one locally. I am reluctant to take the bike in there however, as I haven't purchased anything from them and they don't have the best reputation to begin with.

As I see it, I have two options.

1) Purchase a 115 tooth belt for $80. The shorter belt would allow me to set the correct belt tension and align the wheel. I would have wasted $80 on the 118 tooth belt that should have worked in the first place. I'd also be ignoring any issues the frame might have.

2) Take the bike in to the local shop to see what they have to say. I'm sure all they can tell me is that there's something wrong with the frame or the dropouts, and it needs replacing. I'd have to ship the frame back to the store I purchased it from, and I'd be out the original $40 shipping, and another $40 return shipping, for a total of $80. These frames were scarce three months ago, and probably non-existent now, so a replacement is probably not an option. I'd have to get a refund and start shopping for another frame. I'd also have wasted two days applying Frame Saver, and have to start the bike over with a new frame.

I'm leaning toward option 1, but before I go that direction I want to see what the experts here have to say. A third option is to look into machining the right dropout to correct the problem, though that would take considerable time.

Any input is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Josh