Originally Posted by
TrojanHorse
Well, factory wheels are not usually built to the standards that heavier riders require and factory wheels on $500 bikes... more so. (less so?)
If you are really bending the rim then it's your problem. if it's just the wheel not staying true it's theirs. I don't think the equipment is suited to the task but there are plenty of wheels out there that are.
It's really up to you whether to return it or fight for a replacement wheel.
How do I know if a rim is bent or is just not staying true? When they have trued the wheels in the past, it seems to spin quite nicely (at least to my untrained eye)
Originally Posted by
bigfred
Hi LL and welcome to the forum. The durability of wheels for clydesdales has far more to do with the quality of the wheel tensioning than the components. Speak to your local Performance Bike shop manager and ask if there is a mechanic that has a greater interest in wheels than the others. Then ask if the current wheel can't be warranteed and if the replacement can't be gone over by said employee before being installed on your bike.
What you would like that staff member to do is: Repeatedly stress relieve, true and tension equalize the wheel to the point that further stress relieving has no effect on tension nor true.
Keep us informed and let us know how things turn out for you.
So if I were to get a replacement wheel and get it properly tensioned ... then it would be about the same as upgrading it to a more expensive rim? As a 'clide, do I need to be ultra-vigilant about making sure the wheel remains true and in even tension?