Thanks all for the paint removal suggestions. I'll try a few of them out after more clean up. I'd like to redo bearings so that it becomes a competent rider, but don't know how much I'll do with it beyond that. I normally ride a 54/55 cm frame (this is 59cm c to t) and this one gives a new meaning to the term "French fit" for me. Oddly, the original owner was only about 5-9" or 5-10" tall. Was it common practice for shops to sell such seemingly over-large frames to customers back in the day?