bigfred 

I'm about 6'5", 250lbs and build my own. As has already been stated, wheel durability, assuming the components are basically fit for intended use, is largely about build quality.

Large riders need realatively high and even tension. Without that spokes flex and recover, leading to breakage.

If you're bike is built to the specifications I found online, you already have a 32 hole Formula rear hub. If your rim is not damaged, your solution could be as simple as purchasing and having properly installed 32 new spokes. Or, if the existing rim has suffered abuse, a new rim in addition to the spokes.

Simple straight gauge spokes from DT, Wheelsmith or Sapim should only be about 0.50c per spoke. A new rim of suitable durability from Velocity or one of a few other vendors should be found for around $60. There is a definate case that can be made for double butted spokes building into more durable wheels for clydes. Those can usually be had for approximately $1.00 each.

So, for between $16-$92 you should have the components you need. Then it's simply a matter of weather you want to pay someone to build up the wheel or do it your self. I, like many of the clydes on this forum have taken to building my own. With very little practice I started achieving results far superior to anything I ever experienced from the shops. They plain and simply can't afford to take the time to be really pedantic with regard to tension equalization. I figure the little time it takes me to do that is more than made up for by not needing to drive back and forth to a shop. I really don't mind spending an extra 30-60 minutes on my own wheel, when doing so ensures that I'll get 20,000 trouble free miles out of that wheel over the next few years.

If you want to do it yourself, all you need is the correct size spoke wrench and an upturned bike. The one additional expenditure I would recommend to a new builder is investing in a Park tensionmeter. It's not neccessary, but, it certainly quickens the learning process surrounding spoke tensions and equalization.

If you would rather have the wheel built for you ask around your local cycling community to find the best "wheelsmith" in your area. Unfortunately, I have only once ever met a shop mechanic that didn't believe they were excellent at "truing" wheels. This usually isn't the fact. Interview your prospective "wheelsmith". Start asking about target drive and non-drive tesnions, stress relieving, acceptable variation in spoke tension and use of a tension meter. If they start poo pooing these things or are unwilling to discuss them, walk away. It's true that a really well practiced wheelsmith can build a perfectly satisfactory wheel without the use of a tension meter. But, they should still be willing to discuss the aforementioned subjects with you, explain what they will deliver and offer you some form of warranty against spoke breakage for the life of the rim.