Walking into a bike shop with a Rolhoff problem is a lot more stressful than walking in with a bent derailleur cage. Rolhoffs are great, until they aren't, and if you're unlucky there's not much of a backup plan. Hitch-hiking is probably more feasible than a field rebuild.

That's my fear talking. I know a lot of people here use and love them. I definitely think there are advantages if you've got the initial capital to purchase one, and you're SURE you can rely on it over great distances.

Part of what I love about traditional drivetrains is that it's very easy to diagnose issues and field-repair. I know if sh** REALLY hits the fan, I can cut my chain down and run my bike as a single-speeder, getting me back to civilization. This flexibility and peace of mind, and transparency, really makes a traditional drivetrain stand out for most touring.


Realistically, these are things that actually happen on tour:

Broken spokes- build very strong wheels, learn to use a Kevlar replacement spoke and true a wheel, and ride carefully (the last one is key).

Worn brakes- use brakes that are easy to adjust (V-brakes or mechanical disc brakes) and have replaceable pads.

Broken chains- long-cage derailleurs and standard chain sizes can compensate for removing a bent link or quickly replacing a chain locally. Do you have a chain breaker and some extra pins in your kit? Why not?

Popped Tires- I wouldn't tour without at least two spare tubes, some Stan's, duct tape, a dollar bill tire boot, levers, a good pump, and in some especially long tours, a spare folding tire.

Are you going to bend your fork, completely overhaul a bottom bracket, snap your handlebars, destroy the bearings in your headset? probably not, no matter what quality of parts you're using. keep it simple and maintain it, and a $1000 bike can run just as reliably and for just as long as a $10,000 touring dream machine.

Nothing against boutique parts, just don't let them be a barrier for entry in your mind.