View Single Post
Old 11-11-14, 12:13 PM
  #7  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,729

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,594 Times in 1,437 Posts
Originally Posted by mooder

@FBinNY, so you say, while the wheel is installed on the bike, ....

Little diagram:
This is exactly what I'm NOT suggesting. line up the damaged spoke/nipple near the fork blade or seat stay. Grab the rim and pull it SIDEWAYS toward the blade, which will slacken/detension the spoke. Do this only enough so you can turn the nipple, because excessive side deflection can cause the wheel to spring into a potato chip shape.

BTW- if you lack the strength, or if the blade is too far for your one handed grip, you can deflect the rim by way of a tourniquet. Wrap a strip of cloth one turn trapping the blade and rim, with some kind of stick trapped. Twist the stick to tension the loop and slowly pull the rim across until you see the spoke begin to go slack. This method has the advantage of precise control, and is easier to hold while you make the switch.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

Last edited by FBinNY; 11-11-14 at 12:19 PM.
FBinNY is offline