View Single Post
Old 11-12-14, 11:11 AM
  #15  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,729

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,594 Times in 1,437 Posts
Reading between the lines of the OP, I suspect that the OP's issue isn't with the shank (tubular extension) of the nipple, but with removal of the head which is recessed in a double wall rim.

He describes the shank as broken, so breaking it more won't help. Possibly there's enough left that he can grab and turn it with pliers or a vice-grip, but if not, he still has to remove the head, and if he breaks the shank off completely won't be able to turn it from that end.

Ultimately he'll need a purchase on the head itself, either with a screwdriver slotted to clear the spoke, or with long nose pliers, or some other way. My method of detensioning the spoke will reduce the needed torque and help with whatever method he uses.

One more method he might use.

Find or buy a socket wrench or nut driver which is slightly too small to fit over the head. Using a bench grinder, spin grind the OD at a shallow angle to form a circular chisel point. Tap it down over the head and it'll shave the head to a hex, then use a fresh nut driver to remove the now hex shaped nipple. (Do not try to drive it with the cutting edged tool whose thin walls will fail.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is online now