I drove from Carolina to Nashville on Monday, 11/3, and on Tuesday began pedaling the eleven miles from the motel to the Trace parkway about 10a.m. Even though I had again sorted gear and supplies the previous night, minimizing my touring load, I was unconditioned for the extra weight. Also, I discovered that Tennessee has hills, which, while not terribly steep on the Trace, were somewhat long and unrelenting in their challenge to my average speed and daily mileage (especially on the first days). While my 26T small chain ring x 32T freewheel cog were sufficient, I used the lowest gear quite a lot, struggling to maintain 4.5 mph on the uphill grades and occasionally getting to the middle chain ring on the down hill parts where I encountered a fairly strong headwind on most days. My average speed for the trip varied from 10.3 to 12.3 mph, improving with my physical conditioning and the diminishing of the hills.

I met Pierre from Montreal on that first day at a rest stop. Since we were going in the same direction we agreed to at least camp together at locations which we would agree on enroute. We were hauling about the same size loads, but his bike was a lighter Myata or Myota road touring bike. And he was half my age. And he was a stronger rider. So we didn't actually pedal much together; if we started together, he would pull away on the uphills and I would catch up if he stopped for lunch. We pedaled in the rain 30 miles the second day and shared a cabin at a KOA campground to warm up and dry out. Aside from that night, we camped in approved campsites but took rest days on 3 occasions in some towns/cities along the way. Those rest days, especially the one in Tupelo after a 70 mile day, were significant in helping my legs recover. By the time we arrived in Natchez on Saturday, 11/15, I felt great and capable of biking the return trip. Alas, the cold weather attack from Canada was an unwelcome prospect to endure while camping on the way back to Nashville, so I rented a car and drove back. Pierre continued on to Baton Rouge, having a flight to catch in New Orleans a few days later.

The Natchez Trace is a great ride, with pavement quality from good to excellent and light traffic except for the areas around Tupelo and Jackson, Mississippi. There are historical points of interest for those so inclined or, as in my case, (a tired cyclist) a place to sit and have a snack. I met some great folks along the way, including several cyclists and a Washington Post travel writer cycling the Trace for a story to appear next August. I am invigorated.