Before you do anything, do this simple test. With the bike upright on the floor, release the quick-release, make sure the forks are sitting solely on the axle and re-tighten. Measure the distance from the rim to left brake pad, or better the left fork blade. Now turn the wheel around and do the same, also to the feft. Are these measurements the same (within an mm or so? Yes? Wheel is dished correctly. Don't change it. No? Loosening the spokes on one side and tightening the other will be appropriate, but be aware that you will also have to mess with further truing when you do this. (Not in theory, but nearly always in practice.)

If the answer was no, the wheel isn't the issue. Either the fork blades are not symmetrical around the steerer centerline or the dropouts are not located at exactly the same height. In either case, you can file the top of the dropout to correct the brake situation, but if the fork blades are off, you now have a front wheel that does not sit in the plane of the rest of the bike.

Be careful here: A non steel fork should be left as-is if it is the blades and dropouts filed with real care. A second visual opinion from someone in the industry is strongly advised, both for the alignment and wisdom of filing. Steel forks that are not lightweight steel are a lot more forgiving. Still, keep in mind how hard you are going to be on this fork. Are you heavy? An equipment beater? Ride things into the ground? Adjust that brake the best you can and forget it. Impact testing helmets is best left to the pros.

Ben