A trick for set-up: Get the levers placed best you can. Don't tape teh handlebars. Do put tape around the brake and derailleur housings. perhpas with an end folded back so removing and replacing that piece of tape is easy. Put the wrench for the brake lever clamp (probably a 5mm hex), wrenches for your stem, both for the HB faceplate or clamp and the steerer/quill and a 6" ruler (or any other straight edge) in your pocket. Go for a ride.

Stop and play with the lever position, handlebar tilt and even stem height until it feels perfect. Might take more than one ride. There is no way you can get that information in your shop and the work of untaping, moving stuff and retaping is enough that you will probably stop long before you exactly dialed in. But doing this with naked bars means that even if you lower everything and trim your cables and housings down to perfect, then decide to go back, no big deal. Costs you some cable and housing but not a whole lot of work. It's those taped bars that are a hassle to start cables on and changing housings is real work, enough that you probably won't do it (and it may well cost you the HB tape or a good finished look).

And it you cannot get those levers to work? Changing them out on naked bars is easy!

Ben