When you hear hoof beats - think horses not zebras....

In other words, look for the simplest solution first before reinventing the wheel!

Your bike will either have 120mm rear spacing or 126mm spacing. If it's 120mm then your choice of freewheels will be limited to a 5 speeds or a 6 speed narrow.

126mm wide dropouts can take standard 5 speed or 6 speed FWs plus narrow 6 speed and 7 speed FWs.

I would not mess with spreading the rear triangle on an uber classic Eisentraut frame. It's like messing with a piece of Chippendale furniture from the the 1700s!

Some simple solutions that I'd recommend are:

1. Get a 38T or 39T chainring. I've been happy with FSA chainrings. I run 48T, 49T or 50T with a 38T or 39T inner chainring.

2. Get a larger freewheel. I use 28T FWs with 38T or 39T chainrings and standard Shimano Crane derailleurs so your DuraAce RD may work fine with this combo.

Shimano Crane with a13-28T narrow 6 speed FW and 50-38T chainrings



If you want/need lower gears, you can get a FW with up to 34T. In that case I'd look for a long arm Shimano Crane. They still shift as well as most derailleurs made.

Long arm Shimano Crane with a 13-32T 6 speed FW and 50-38T chainrings



You could also find a later Shimano Deore XT or LX long arm rear derailleur. They were designed for MTBs with index shifting but work great with friction levers like on your bike. They work just as well on road bikes!



If you go the route that I'm suggesting then you'll have components that will somewhat match your DuraAce stuff. Keep your bike a Campy Free Zone!!!

3. Get a new chain, one made for 6-8 speed freewheels or cassettes. They're narrower and more flexible so they make shifting a lot smoother.

IRD had some problem with their earlier FWs. They've released a new model, the Classica that looks very good. These have the sculpted teeth and ramps found on cassettes that make shifting a dream.

Classica 5/6/7-Speed Freewheels

I tried a Sunrace FW about 5-6 years ago. It was the worst FW I'd ever used. If felt like there were rocks in the mechanism and kept locking up. I've heard that they are much better today.

4. Replace the cables and cable housings. The newer Teflon lined housings make shifting and braking super smooth.

5. When you walk into a shop and some fool makes disparaging comments about your classic jewel, slowly start backing out the door without turning around then get out of there as fast as you can!

If you can't find a good shop and don't know how to work on your bike then learn... There are some great resources on the web - the late Sheldon Brown plus Park Tool have very good info.

Otherwise, send me your address and I'll have UPS or FedX come by and pick up that useless old wallhanger.

verktyg

Chas.