Originally Posted by
koolerb
EZ-Out; But for your purpose if I'm picturing what you're doing correctly an EZ-Out and a left rotating bit slightly smaller than the bolt OD is what you'd want.
That's exactly what I'm picturing. The first one was too small for the job and broke.
Originally Posted by
HillRider
As long as we are resurrecting a real old thread, note that Ultegra and Dura Ace Octalink cranks (FC6500, FC6503, FC7700) had autoextractor bolts. There is a collar with two spanner holes that screws into the crank extractor threads around the fixing bolt. The proper removal technique is to loosen the center bolt with an 8 mm hex wrench a turn or so to where it will get tight again as it comes up against the outer collar. Continuing to turn the bolt will press the arm off of the bb spindle.
One more thing; make sure the 8 mm bit or hex key you use is in good condition with sharp corners. A worn, loose key will cause just the problem that started this thread.
I discovered the auto-extractor bolts in my online research, in fact that's what the new cranks have. The original, stuck bolts, were not. Interesting comment about the hex keys - it's possible that the previous owner may have partially stripped the bolts in a previous attempt as the hex wrench was loose right from the start. I tried using three 8mm wrenches - so I know it wasn't the wrenches.
Originally Posted by
Dan Burkhart
Dan, thanks for the suggestion. I saw these on the rack when I was looking for the extractors. They do indeed look useful, however in my situation I needed the leverage of the breaker bar to get the bolts to move.
I'm beginning to learn that you can never have too many tools. Preventative or not. I'm beginning to need something / someplace to keep all the tools so that I can find them. But that's a different thread.