Originally Posted by crank_addict

Randyjawa- Your results look outstanding! Paint out of a can always seems thick. Do you thin it and to what consistency? Also depending on formula paint and type, what kind of brush bristle do you use?

I have no experience with brush painting or rattle can 'candy' application bike frames but do with solid coats (and non-metallic) spray can. I've found the time involved really isn't time consuming and good enough for a lower value bike. Additionaly, its easier than buying special colors, reducers, sprayer prep, clean-up, etc..

Less than $15 paint and material cost (from Home Depot / sale). Best cheapo and results have been with spray Rust-Oleum 2X. Two cans per frame and fork is plenty. So far its the best I've seen for chip resistance. No reason to strip the frame bare, even for a color change. I leave as much original bike finish as possible but is sanded down enough for top coat adhesion. The rusted or bare areas are primered and then the entire frame is once again sanded with a 320 grit paper. Just before spray, wiped clean with a lacquer thinner and then tack cloth.

The Rust-Oleum 2X can be sprayed with the can inverted, a better nozzle pattern than other spray cans but advisable to use a handle / trigger attachment. Use multiple light coats, not thick like some powder coatings. I think the trick is in the curing and having patience - let it cure for a month..... you read it correctly. Rest it outside in the hot sunny days but low humidity. Add stripes and or graphics. A Sharpie color marker is super easy to use for lug outlining. Wipe clean again with a tack cloth. Finally, top coat lightly with multiple applications of a urethane clear. If you have some imperfections just let settle and cure for a half hour between coats and then very lightly scuff again with a pad. Tack cloth just before spraying.