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Old 01-13-15 | 09:17 AM
  #15  
FBinNY
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Originally Posted by xifias
i see.indeed it may not be very sophisticated of a repair but it's a critical one,that calls for some expertise to deal with it.
ill try for a start to see what its going wrong,following the paradigms above and then decide.
Here's a quick diagnostic you can try without removing the fork.

Use bungee or rubberbands to tie the front wheel to the down tube and keep the fork straight. The tie a loop on one end of a string, and slip it under the QR. Bring th string up and around the top tube behind the headset, and down the other side. Tension the string and trap it under the QR which will hold it there.

Stand in front of the bike and look at how the fork sits within the string's triangle. Does it look asymmetrical? Measure various points from a frame reference to the string. It should match on both sides everywhere. One telling reference is the brake center bolt. If the fork is symmetrical, and the front wheel centers between the blades, the bike should track. If not, check the frame for alignment via a similar string method, rear axle to head tube.

This is a coarse diagnostic because it can miss subtle issues, but is very good at showing that a fork is off, and give a rough sense of where and how it's off.
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