Originally Posted by
Hypno Toad
You can get better prices, the 45NRTH Dillinger has a lot of variations. The $250 version is the top of the line.
Available in 120tpi studded, 27tpi studded, and 120tpi stud-less versions. The
Dillinger 4 27 tpi is $175. Or get the stud-less version and add your own studs;
$135 plus you but studs and installation tool. Most work and most cost-effective.
Also consider only one studded tire for the front wheel. This cuts the cost in half and honestly, the front is where you need the extra grip for steering and braking. The rear is only really helpful when you are pedaling hard enough to spin out (hard to do with a fatbike). I've done this with my Marin Nail Trail (winter-commuter); with thousands of winter miles, I can say that this is a very nice compromise.
I went through a lot of research over the last couple weeks, looking to set my wife's Pugsley up with studs. After all the research, she decided she's happy with the Surly Nate tires (non-studded). On hardpack trails, the Nate tires are solid. I have 200 miles on my Pugsley since Santa dropped it off; and not had any issues with grip on hardpack. Ice, that's a different story; if you expect to ride on ice, go for studs!
Ok that's mega helpful, HT. Thanks. Yesterdays ride on singletrack was rutted ice! It sucked and was really squirrely. I probably coulda gone down 3 more psi. But there were big enough obstacles I din't want to hurt my wheels. Found out the stock tires are not great in these conditions. Tread blocks too far apart. Fine for hardpack, slush, hard slush. But The guy I was with was on a Yampa rolling 4" Husker du's. I think he had more control. Steep learning curve !