I used to drape my hands over aero levers on my sort-of first modern bike (Epic Allez), but I set up my bikes these days to have a wonderful fit with my hands in the drops for any reasonable amount of time as needed. This for me comes down to having the saddle-to-bars "reach" within a close range (about 21" using a familiar sort of saddle).

And I've managed to get aero or non-aero levers to actuate vintage calipers with a light-enough pull at the lever and with snappy return.

I have sometimes (with, say, Universal, Weinmann or ChangStar/ProStar sidepull calipers) had to "relax" the caliper springs a bit (by bending them) in order to have an easy enough lever pull effort for strong braking, and such relaxation of the springs really offers a seemingly disproportionate improvement in braking ease as the initial lever travel has the pads meeting the rim with no effort wasted.
It's all about good cabling runs (usually with Aero levers it's where the housing enters the socket in the lever body) and free-moving caliper pivot adjustment, such that the lever returns fully with good "snap" sufficient to prevent the levers from clacking over bumpy roads.
Some early Aero levers had a ferrule with ball-socket freedom of movement that often had the inner wire cutting away at the hole in the alloy spherical-tipped ferrule, with resultant months of "gritchy" cable action that might be discovered only AFTER the bars had been carefully wrapped!