Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,096
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4210 Post(s)
What is pictured is a freewheel, not a cassette. The FR-1 is the correct tool. Unlike a cassette where the lockring is only as tight as the installation mechanic made it, a freewheel will get as tight as the greatest force from pedaling that has been applied since it's installation. Usually the torque multiplication of the gears and the greater strength of the legs means that a freewheel will be FAR tighter the any cassette lockring would be. A stout bench vice and proper body bracing while grasping the wheel/rim/tire at opposite points is needed. I've dealt with many freewheels that needed two strong mechanics to remove. Andy.