Originally Posted by
imobilinpedalus
Well for starters, when i first got to the bike shop, talked to the owner and presented him with the worn out crank set he asked me if i had tried using locktite. I most certainly asked him about the bolts as well, but unfortunately i keep asking but never get any straight answers. This trio has been running the shop for decades, so i am surprised they have so little knowledge to show for it. There`s this one guy who seems to have all the answers but he`s never around. This is the shop i purchased the bicycle in question so i have to seek advice there.
As i had predicted i ended up ordering the new crank set at around $200. This is i would say learning the hard way. Ideally it should not be necessary to buy a new crank set at all. After the alu. crank bolt physically fell off while riding /and the crank arm as well) back in may i had no other choice than to use a steel bolt. But it lasted only say eight months (the actual bolt still looks new) I am guessing the steel bolt ate at the locking teeth rendering it mortally wounded after this relatively short period. So now hopefully (by adding red L.T.) there will be less chance of movement in there and the crank will last longer. But hey, i am no wiz this is merely a theory of mine. I guess i was so preoccupied with the idea of NOT having any more such incidents, that applying red locktite was a "no brainer" Maybe it`s just brute pedal force that has worn down the old crank.
And for you "trailangel" The two chain rings on the crank has a specific number of teeth on them. When i bought the bicycle in may 2012 it came equipped with uhhm..probably 38/30??? Anyway a smaller radius outer chain ring. I gradually increased these and after having ridden with a 48/32? teeth set up for about 18 months, the new apex crank i just installed, has a 52/34 configuration. I believe this is very close to what your average road bike comes with. I have not yet grown accustomed to all the bicycle component expressions let alone the english terms
I was out today testing this new set up. The chain still seems to be a tad long even after the removal of one full link. So i probably need a new one. Which automatically implies a new cassette as well. The adjustment screw was all the way in but the chain still barely touch the lower rear jockey. The chain also skips a beat every few pedal revolutions. Man, what will it take to get this new set up of mine IN`sync?!
AND WHY AM I BEING LOGGED OUT ALL THE TIME IN LIKE EVERY 10 MINUTES??? SERIOUSLY - C`MON FORUM CHIEFS..
Alright, this locktite controversy seems a sensitive one here, so think i will refrain from bringing the subject up here in the future. Roger out..
Your description is confusing, because changing from smaller chainring set to a larger chainring set (like 38/30 to 52/34) would require a longer chain, not a shorter chain.
Anyway, shift the bike so the chain is on the larger chainring and on the largest rear cog (the "big-big" combination). The rear derailleur cage will be pivoted forward by the chain tension. In big-big, the chain should be just long enough, plus one or two extra links for safety. What that means is, you should be able to fold two adjacent links of the chain to touch each other, to simulate a chain that is one link shorter. But you should not be able to fold more adjacent links to touch, which would simulate a chain that is 3 or more links shorter.
You can shorten the chain by removing links and reconnecting, if you have the necessary chain tool. Or your bike shop can do it.
Normally, going to a larger chainring does not require a new cassette. Shortening the chain does not require a new cassette. Installing a new chain does not require a new cassette. Unless, the teeth of your old cassette are worn out. That would normally require many thousands of miles of riding. So I think you, or your bike shop, should check the chain length and shorten the chain or replace the chain as necessary, then see if the chain is still skipping on the cassette. I wouldn't replace the cassette without knowing that it is necessary.
I'm not sure what "adjustment screw" you are referring to. Don't mess with the derailleur adjustment screws unless you know what you are doing. One of those screws limits how far inward (toward the wheel) the rear derailleur can move. If it is set incorrectly, the rear derailleur can move far enough to contact the spokes. That results in the derailleur being torn off the frame, usually destroying the derailleur and sometimes damaging the frame. An expensive mistake.
When you went from 38/30 chainrings to 52/34 chainrings, did you adjust the position of the front derailleur? Normally that would have been required.
Maybe you should go to a different bike shop. There is no reason you have to get your bike serviced at the same shop that sold it years ago.