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Old 02-21-15 | 09:21 AM
  #21  
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Bill Kapaun
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3

Originally Posted by TransitBiker
Well, since you asked..... just seems the strong spokes paired with their secure lock nipples and the eyelets in the rim create a really robust structure you can rely on. Sometimes more is more. Sapim also is about 10 cents cheaper a spoke from what ive seen online (shops may be different). On the more technical side they use a "stretch" forging technique that doesnt disturb the molecular structure of the metal vs some kind of "squeeze" forging used by most other companies (have seen vids of various production lines). From what i have learned searching the internet before the mechanic swapped the spokes out, is that they are a go-to spoke for tandems and can be found on many OEM electric bikes I have a few spare spokes from when they rebuilt the rear wheel few months ago, and i can see that the heads are a more conical shape vs so many that have a more T shape to the head. This fills out the holes in the hub more, tucks the elbow up next to the hub flange... which reduces or eliminates strain on the elbow. That last bit is important, because i lost 2 spokes at the thread and a third broke at the elbow before getting them all replaced with the strong spoke & secure lock nipples. Lastly, the thicker part towards the head seems to extend down toward the thread a bit farther vs other ones ive seen.

- Andy
A properly built wheel doesn't need any kind of "lock" nipple.

Spokes start out as "wire". Wire is drawn through a die, or "stretched".
Impact or "squeeze" is used to shape the piece of "wire".

A longer than necessary "thick" section is just more weight.

A wheel is a "system" of hub, spokes, rims & nipples.
It's only as strong as the weakest link.
Strong doesn't always equate to longest lasting.
Quality of the build is the biggest factor, assuming reasonable quality parts.
The only place I'd use a Sapin Strong (13/14 SB) spoke is on the rear DS.
Using one on the NDS, with its lower tension is counter productive, since the spoke is under very little elongation at those tensions.
On a front wheel, it's just unneeded weight, since thinner guage spokes are beyond "strong enough" for symmetrical hubs.
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