I am not familiar with those brakes, but they look a lot like the old Mafacs. Those brakes had plenty of power and were not fussy about being close to the rim. I'd adjust the cable a hair looser so that when you squeeze, it isn't hard to pull the bridle cable off. I also do the squeeze and release as a 3 step move. Squeeze. Lift the lever you want to disconnect with your other hand. Release the squeeze and pull the cable out with that hand. With a firm lift at the bridle cable with your second hand, the squeezed pads won't go anywhere and the additional bend of of the caliper will give you a little more slack to work with.

I agree with the poster above that you would be better served with few spacers between the pads and the arms. This will do two things. Raise the cable attachments, making removing and replacing the bridle a hair easier and more important, creating closer to a right angle between the pad at the pad/rim interface and the line between that interface and the brake pivot. This will mean that the pad will "travel" up the rim less as it wears and lessen the chances of it contacting the tire sidewall.

On a proper bike, you should never have to loosen the brake cable, remove a pad or drop tire pressure to remove a wheel. (Well, it is always possible to find a tire so big you have to, but until then ...) And, yes, you should have a barrel adjust on the cable run somewhere, but it should not be necessary to use it to remove a wheel, only to dial in that sweet place where the pad is close enough to brake well but releasing the cable is easy.

Ben