Originally Posted by
loimpact
And, no, I hadn't seen any of your posts about green loctite, though I'd thought I'd read it all. (I saw a post on another forum about someone using teflon-tape around the bearing OD, of all things, to keep quiet. Apparently it worked, but if consensus says it's green loctite, then I'm happy to buy some).
FWIW, if this is "the" cure......why hasn't C'dale, Park and every forum on the planet posted the heck out of it yet??
From the Park Tools link I posted earlier:
There can be two press fit complications with the BB30. If the press fit into the frame is too loose, the bearings may move in the shell when stressed by pedaling. This results in a creaking sound. To resolve this, first check the torque on crank bolts to determine if the crank-to-spindle interface is the source of the noise. If this fails and there is still creaking, it may be the cartridge bearing moving in the shell. The bearings should be removed and new ones installed. Press the new bearings into the frame using a retaining compound such as Loctite® RC™ 609. Even using a threadlocker such Loctite® 242 at would be better than pressing the bearings into the shell dry.
If the press fit is too tight (the shell ID being too small relative to the bearings), the ball bearing in the cartridge will be literally squeezed and ground as you pedal. If you remove the cranks from the bike, turn the bearing inner race by hand — it should feel smooth. If you feel tightness and grinding, it is likely from the press fit being too tight. Do not confuse dirty bearings for this feeling. If the fit is too tight, it can be corrected by reaming the frame shell. A professional bike shop will use the Park Tool HTR-1 and the 752 BB30 Reamer Set. This will correct the inside diameter by removing material from the shell.