I use the Refuse tires, 23c, weight range was 170-185 but currently a bit lighter. They don't ride real nice, very stiff/coarse casing, but they are quite durable. I got them in 2011? and am still on them. I have two pairs on two pairs of training wheels and both sets are in great shape. The rears have more wear but that's to be expected. The front one one set look brand new, the front on the other (pretty much used 2011-2014) look weathered but with tons of life left on it. Great traction in the wet, one reason I got them. I only bought them to support an LBS, bought them without knowing about them, but they've been good.

With higher rider weight (I've been in the 215 lbs range) there's two aspects to tire durability. One is wear, and that's not really a big deal. When the rear wears out put the front tire on the rear wheel, and you count yourself lucky that you hadn't flatted up to that point. The other is pinch flats, and that's a huge deal because flatting is never a good thing. Your friends are air volume, air pressure, and "riding light".

More air volume resists pinch flats better. Most of your weight is on the rear wheel so if you can you might consider using an even wider tire in the back, if it fits..

Air pressure also helps. Check any tire for max air pressure - a tire with a stretchy/weaker bead might be rated lower than one with a better one. You may need to be hitting the 110-120 psi range in the rear. I don't remember what I did when I was over 200, but at 200 lbs I was using a 700x23 at 110 psi (on normal rims, not wide ones) fine. Now I'm on similar size tires, 90-105 psi, on wide (23mm) rims.

Riding "lightly" really helps. This means at minimum unweighting your bike when approaching any rough stuff, meaning lifting your butt off the saddle and trying to be a bit loose with your elbows. This allows the bike to pivot/rock back and forth, absorbing some shock that might otherwise get absorbed by the tire. Your 28c tire only has 25 mm or so shock absorption before you pinch flat (you're going to be squishing the tire significantly just sitting on the bike). If you get your butt off the saddle you might have 50-150 mm of travel before something has to give. You can also learn how to bunny hop or at least unweight the rear of the bike. You don't have to lift your bike as much as you want to avoid letting it drop into the pothole. It's pretty straight forward if you have clipless pedals. Practice gently in a quiet area, practice lifting over set things (like a parking lot stripe or maybe a tiny crack or shadow running across the road), and then try it over something rough but not crazy bad. Then hopefully you'll have the natural reaction to lift the rear wheel when you're daydreaming and suddenly realize you're riding into the mother of all potholes.

I'm pretty good at being light on the bike. Recently that point got driven home pretty hard when I repeatedly went though a puddle that I thought only had one pothole in it. I was careful with that one pothole but thought the ride was pretty rough for the minor pothole. What I didn't realize is that there was a second much bigger pothole in the same puddle. I ended up pinchflatting a tubular (which virtually never happens, plus my tubulars live at 120 psi) because I was riding obliviously into that other huge pothole. For me to have an impact flat on a tubular? That hasn't happened in eons. Actually I can't remember it happening to me. I've seen it happen with someone else, a young/dumb teammate that hit a massive pothole at 45-55 mph, he not only double flatted but broke both his rims as well, and that was 20 years ago, give or take.

Hope this helps.